Watch our YouTube videos for WEIG-A-TINNY® Scope Mount Installation help

If you have ever wondered how our scope mounts install, try our YouTube video library.

You can find the videos at the following link

I am currently working on dozens of new, more specif, videos. The videos posted now are very general but give you a solid idea of how to install our scope mounts. Some mounts are confusing to look at off of the firearm. In the videos we show you how they look correctly mounted on your favorite rifle pistol or revolver.

Generally when someone is having trouble mounting one of our products they either didn’t know we had videos or just did not watch them. If we have a video for the product you are looking at you will find it on the product page next to the YouTube icon.  Small YouTube Image

As always if you have questions please feel free to call us at 570-868-8358 Monday through Friday 9am to 4pm, or email us at

RUGER® Revolver Model Names Explained

We have been encountering quite a few issues with customers getting many of the RUGER® Revolver names confused, and they can be confusing. I am going to post photos and give the correct name and a little overview of the revolver. In searching for photos on Google I found quite a few incorrectly labeled photos.

Ruger Redhawk Hunter  RUGER® Redhawk® Hunter® Model

The Redhawk® is a double action revolver and is very popular in .44 Magnum caliber. What makes this a Hunter®  model Redhawk® are the two semi circles you see cut into the top of the barrel just in front of the receiver. This accommodates the RUGER® style rings for scope mounting. This also allows us to mount our RRHNGS/B scope mount to the barrel so you can attach Weaver Picatinny or WEIG-A-TINNY® style attachments.

Ruger Redhawk  RUGER® Redhawk®

The very same revolver as the above minus the Hunter® scope ring attaching points on the barrel. We have two scope mounts for this model.
Our non drill and tap RRH75NDS/B scope mount, it attaches to the receiver and barrel so you can attach Weaver Picatinny or WEIG-A-TINNY® style attachments.
And our drill and tap RASWMS/B scope mount that attaches only to the receiver.

Ruger Super Redhawk  RUGER® Super Redhawk®

This is also a double action revolver very popular in the .44 Magnum, 454 Casull and .460 Ruger calibers. You can see the big difference is that the RUGER® ring cuts are located on the receiver and not the barrel.
We offer two different scope mounts for this revolver depending on caliber.
Our SRH+ scope mount is for the .44 Magnum caliber only and does not require removal of the rear sight.
Our SRH454 scope mount can be found on the same page and is used with the heavier recoiling 454 Casull and .460 Ruger calibers.

Ruger Blackhawk  RUGER® Blackhawk®

This is a single action revolver and is also very popular in .44 Magnum and comes in other various calibers.
Our RASWMS/B scope mount is currently our only offering for this revolver and requires drilling and tapping two 6-48 holes. The mount also utilizes the existing rear sight elevation screw hole for attachment.

Ruger Super Blackhawk RUGER® Super Blackhawk®

This revolver is very similar to the standard Blackhawk®, in short it has been made a little stronger to handle larger calibers. There are other subtle differences but for scope mounting purposes is much the same as the Blackhawk®.
Our RASWMS/B scope mount is currently our only offering for this revolver and requires drilling and tapping two 6-48 holes. The mount also utilizes the existing rear sight elevation screw hole for attachment.

Ruger Super Blackhawk Hunter  RUGER® Super Blackhawk® Hunter®

Very much the same revolver as above with the exception of the RUGER® scope ring mounting points making it a Hunter® model. One other interesting feature is the removable front sight.
Our RRHNGS/B scope mount is our most popular offering for this model.
Our RASWMS/B scope mount will work and should be used when heavy recoiling ammunition will be the norm. Drilling and tapping is always the most solid solution for scope mounting.

I hope this goes a little way in clearing up some of the model designations RUGER® uses to identify a few of their revolver offerings. As always if you have questions please feel free to contact us via email or phone. We are always glad to help.

No Drill and Tap VS No Gunsmithing

We don’t manufacture No Gunsmithing scope mounts but we do manufacture a lot of no drill and tap scope mounts. In my opinion all scope mounts require a good gunsmith to install them. I talk to hundreds of people a week and I can generally tell in a minute or so if you should be installing your own scope mount. Lets face it, some people are just not mechanically inclined. Just like you would not want me presenting the closing argument at your trial, not in my gifting package.

I suggest that everyone find a competent gunsmith and have he or she install your scope mount. If you feel you have the mechanical abilities then go for it. I do suggest that anyone installing one of our mounts read the instructions and check out our growing You Tube library of videos.

Lots of little issues crop up installing any scope mount. The most common I hear is the screws are too long. If you can not shorten a screw you should not really be installing a scope mount. Top straps on revolvers in particular vary in thickness. We always try to design our mounts and screws so that there are no exposed threads on the bottom of the top strap. What happens is these recesses collect led and gunpowder residue and can actually affect the function of the revolver, sometimes creating drag on the cylinder. This is why we keep the screws as long as possible and can some times stick out a thread or two.

My point in all of this is that guns vary widely dimension wise so be prepared to do a little gunsmithing when installing any scope mount. No drill and tap does not necessarily mean no gunsmithing.

Proper Allen or Hex Head Screw Tightening

Something I see at the shop quite often is rounded out Hex head screws. Customers will return scope mounts claiming they received defective screws. We use only screws made in the USA to strict Allen manufacturers product specifications. We are a VERY small shop and I personally examine every return we receive. We have a very minute rate of return and generally the returns are screw related.

I use a 10X loop (magnifying glass) to look inside of the hex cavity to determine why the hex failed. The overwhelming reason for failure is installers do not get the Allen wrench inserted in all the way to the bottom of the cavity. When you look into the ruined screw cavity you will see it is rounded out only half the way down with the lower portion of the hex intact. The smaller the key size the more sensitive the screws are to rounding out. When inserting the key take your time and make sure the key bottoms out in the bottom of the cavity. The key then has a full purchase on the entire hex pocket and generally will never round out. Even over tightening the screws will not round them out if you bottom the key in the cavity.

The second biggest problem is cheap hex keys. You will find in our instructions we suggest using only Allen brand keys. In good USA made screws an Allen brand key will fit very snug. The off brand made in China hex keys are generally loose fitting and have a way better chance of rounding out the screw cavity.

In 30+ years of installing our mounts I have never once rounded out and Allen screw during installation. Sometimes removing a thread locked screw can be a different story but that is for another post.

The key to successfully installing a Allen or hex head screw is

1)     Use only Allen brand hex keys. You can find them HERE, at the bottom of the page, on our web site

2)     Always bottom the key in the hex cavity in the screw.

You can view our entire line of scope mounts the the following link

Weigand Scope Mounts

One Method For Sighting In a Scope or Dot Sight

I say one method because there are many methods used in sighting in procedures. I see this topic debated constantly in forums and it can be a very heated discussion. What I am posing is a very simple method to get you up and running quickly.

Of course we start with everything correctly installed. You can use this method for pistol, revolver, rifle or whatever. I start with a target at 10 yards. I know it is very close but it gives you an easy place to start . I will generally lay my firearm across my shooting bag or sand bag if you have one, for stability and support. It is hard to get sighted in if you are not steady.

I use a small 2″ diameter black dot, on a 2′ x 2′ piece of cardboard. I generally draw the dot on the cardboard with a sharpie. If you have a target that is the grid style, 1″ or 1/2″ square blocks, all the better. Fire one shot, if you are in the center of the dot you can read the next paragraph. If not here is what I do. Lets say I am 1/2″ left and 1″ low. Because we are close it will take quite a few clicks to see movement in shot placement. In this case, from experience I would move the windage (left and right adjustment) 4 clicks right. Because the elevation (up and down adjustment) was twice as far off as the windage I would move the elevation 8 clicks up. Aiming at the same point you initially shot at fire another round. If you need to move it more or less by all means move it again. You can tell by the point of impact movement if you have gone in the correct direction. This is a little trial and error, just take your time and observe your results. OK for our example that did the trick and you have a center hit.  Move your target to 20 yards and repeat. I keep doubling the distance until I reach my desired sighting in distance.

Here is the confusing thing about scope adjustment clicks and point of impact movement.  A lot of scopes and dot sight have the following system of clicks, not all but many do.

At 100 yards 1 click moves the point of impact 1/4″. So if we fired a shot and it was 1/4″ left one click to the right would center the shot. Here is where the confusion comes in. If we now fire the same gun at 50 yards 1 click now represents 1/8″ of point of impact movement instead of the 1/4″ we got at 100 yards. The following is a visual of this concept.

Line 2 targets up, each center in line with the other, one target is at 100 yards the other is at 50 yards. We fire a shot through both targets. If the target at 50 yards has a hole 1/2″ to the left then the target at 100 yards is going to have a hole 1″ to the left. You need to look at it like an angle. Not to confuse things but that is 1 MOA or Minute of Angle. A 1″ deviation of impact at 100 yards is 1 MOA. So when we move the point of impact at 100 yards 1″ it is only moving 1/2″ at 50. Dang I hope that is clear, HA HA!

You need to keep this in mind as you are progressing farther out using my method of sighting in. Each click will represent more movement as you move farther out.

Final distance for sighting in. This will vary for everyone. If you shoot only at 50 yards then zero your gun in at 50 yards. If you shoot at 100 yards then zero your gun for 100 yards, it is really that simple. If you know your zero at a fixed distance, you know your ammunition’s velocity, you can calculate your point of impact at varying distances very easily using ballistic tables. We will save that for another post.

If this is unclear please feel free to drop me a line. I may need to clean this up to make it more understandable for everyone. It seems easy to me but I have been doing it for a long time and I may be omitting some very important points. Feel free to let me know.


Scope Mount Screw Torque?

Scope Mounting Screw Torque

This is a hot topic today. I will give you what I have learned over the past 30 years of doing this for a living. It is not all that hard, the screws need to be tightened, not over tightened, enough so the mount is not loose and the screws will not loosen up. I do use thread lock on ALL scope mount and ring screws. I use small screw, service removable thread locker. It is generally pink or a milky red or purple in color. Please see my Thread Locker post for more details.

Here are the most important things to remember when torquing screws.

We use screws made in the USA. Purchase only ALLEN® brand Allen wrenches. Inferior brand wrenches fit loose in the screws and will lead to rounding out the head.

When you insert the wrench into the screw head make sure it bottoms out. If you only insert the wrench in say half way, that will also lead to rounding out the head. We see screw heads rounded out and upon examination with a 20X magnifying glass it is obvious most of the time the wrench was only inserted part way.

When torquing screws with a Torque wrench to a particular specification there are many variables. I have looked over at lest 20 torque specification charts and even most of them don’t agree on specs. There are also different specifications for dry or lubricated screws. For our purposes we are going to consider the thread locker on the screw to be a lubricant. Here are the specs we suggest using.

6-32 9 inch pounds
6-40 11 inch pounds
6-48 13 inch pounds
8-32 18 inch pounds
8-36 20 inch pounds
8-40 22 inch pounds

I know this can all be debated until the cows come home but you can’t go to far wrong using the above specifications. I suggest checking the torque after your first trip to the range. If you have done everything correctly all the screws should be set at the same torque you originally applied.

Old School
Many of you know I am an old timer. I have been using the following method of tightening scope mount screws since I started in business. I can say I have never had a failure using this method.

Using a short arm ALLEN® wrench I snug the screws down. We all know what snug is. I use one finger at the tip of the wrench and tighten it lightly. I then turn the wrench another 1/8 of a turn. We did an experiment at the shop and found that is pretty consistently 20 inch pounds of torque with me doing it. I am sure it varies with different people tightening the screws but it should get you pretty close.

All in all I don’t believe it is anything to get uptight about. It is pretty straight forward. Torque wrenches are great and provide consistency but I don’t believe you can’t mount a scope mount without one. It has been being done for over 100 year without Torque wrenches with great success.

Using Thread Locker

Using Thread Locker on Scope Mounting Screws,

Thread locker should be used on ALL scope mount attaching screws. Screws not thread locked will come loose eventually.

I know many of you already know how to use thread locker but for those of you that do not, please read carefully.

We will discuss small screws such as #6 and #8 screws. Generally scope mounts and items like that use these size screws for mounting. Much of this applies to most any size screw.

The enemy of thread locker is oil. Any oil on the screw or in the threaded hole decreases the strength of the thread locker. It interferes with the curing of the locker and decreases it’s strength. I use simple carburetor cleaner on both the screw and the threaded hole. I squirt both surfaces with the carb cleaner and then compressed air dry each. When the surface is clean it will look dull. Shiny generally means oily.

For the size screws we are talking about I use small screw thread locker. It can also be called service removable. It is generally blue or a sort of pink in color. You can use the permanent red thread locker if you like but it is a little more difficult to remove the screw afterwords.

To remove a small screw that has been permanent thread locked (Red) just apply heat to the screw itself. I generally do this with a soldering iron or a small butane torch. Apply the heat slowly so you don’t discolor the item being held by the screw. Here is the trick. As you apply heat you will smell a sweet aroma, that is when the thread locker has been melted and is ready for removal. Remove the screw as quickly as possible so the locker does not try to bond again.

Back to our applying thread locker to a small screw. I apply a small amount to the screw then the threaded hole. Taking just the screw, I run it in and out of the threaded hole to get the thread locker evenly distributed between the threads of the screw and the threads in the hole. You are now ready to mount whatever it is that you are trying to mount.

Generally thread locker drys in an hour or so. If it has not dried in that time period it is possible that the surfaces were not cleaned sufficiently and you would need to repeat the above process.

Always check to be sure you have not dripped thread locker into your receiver, barrel or other such places, it can cause huge problems. You can use carb cleaner to wash off excess thread locker.

We offer Thread Locker on every one of our scope mount application pages. Click teh following link and select your firearm from the list. You will find a shopping cart button for thread locker.

Scope Mount Fitment Problems

The biggest reason scope mounts have mounting issues are the places we choose to mount them on the firearm. We can all agree that no one likes to drill and tap their firearms? Sometimes there is no other choice but to do so but we would all rather not. As a designer, to design a no drill and tap mount, I have to pick a place or places to attach the mount to existing features on the firearm. That can consist of front sight slots, rear sight slots, existing tapped holes and so on. Here is where the problem comes in. When the manufacturer machines whatever holes or slots into your firearm they generally do not do it with the intention of us mounting something on them. They keep the tolerances they need to make the part they are attaching work, not our scope mount. Let me give an example.

RUGER® GP-100 rear sight elevation screw hole. We use that for mounting the rear portion of our mount to that particular revolver. RUGER® uses that hole strictly to mount the rear sight using the elevation screw. For their application the screw hole can move a little forward or backward and the hole still works for their purposes. We would love to have the hole in the same place all of the time but it is not there for our use. We have to design around these types of things all of the time. When we manufacture a new scope mount we will run a small batch and sell them to customers. If we get feedback from customers having problems we document it and adjust accordingly. We may have to elongate a hole or move it forward or backwards to get it to a sweet spot where it fits all applications. We document most all customer input and fine tune our dimensions until we no longer get calls about the mount having fitment issues.

This is not an excuse it is just a little explanation of why things don’t fit just perfectly all the time. We can hold +-.001 dimensionally all day but you have to come up with the sweet spot first to get the machined feature in the correct position. We strive every day to design and manufacture the best parts available. We run small lots and do regular inspections on all of our parts to keep quality superior.

Welcome to our Scope Mounting Blog

Welcome. Weigand Combat Handguns Inc and WEIG-A-TINNY® have opened this blog to aid anyone trying to mount a scope mount for the first time. Even for the seasoned user there may be usable information here for the taking. We began scope mount production in 1986 and that gives us years of valuable experience that we can pass along to help you have a more enjoyable experience mounting your optic. There is nothing more frustrating to a shooter than having an optic come loose and loose zero. We all spend time and expend expensive ammunition zeroing our firearms. With a properly mounted scope mount your zero should stay put for years to come. Hopefully you will find the information you need to install your optic and also have an enjoyable time doing so.

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